©2018 by John LaTorre
©2018 by John LaTorre
Those who claim to know will tell you that if you want to
learn to play the violin, you have to start early. In fact, some say that if a
child is going to amount to anything as a performer, the lessons should begin
before the child turns twelve, or even earlier. So what chance does a man have
if he takes it up at the age of seventy? That’s what I wanted to find out.
There are reasons why an early start is an advantage. For
one thing, the violin is among the most unaccommodating instruments around. It
requires you to hold it firmly between your chin and your shoulder, in a
position that scoffs at ergonomics. To facilitate this action, there are a
variety of attachments, called “chin rests” and “shoulder rests,” that you can
buy, in an abundance of shapes and dimensions. You, the aspiring student, can
be expected to go through any number of conceivable combinations of these
articles before hitting on a configuration that’s half-way comfortable enough
for you to proceed with the lessons. And even then, you’ll find that you’re
using neck muscles you never realized you had.
Then you have to bend your left hand into an awkward arc,
the better to position your fingers on the fingerboard, while keeping your left
elbow close to the body. If that wasn’t enough, it also requires you to hold
the bow in a grasp that you’ll never use when grasping any other object you’ve ever
encountered. The resulting contortions are quite unnatural, so the earlier that
a child can learn how shape his or her body to the demands of the instrument,
the better chance that the posture will eventually become natural enough to
permit further learning. The instrument’s design is over four hundred years
old, after all, and it’s not about to change to conform to your needs. It’s up
to you to make the adjustments.
Having mastered all that, you’re ready to play. But you’ll
soon discover that when you touch the bow to the strings, all sorts of tones
can be produced, most of them undesirable, depending on where the bow is touching
the string and how much force is being applied. Too little, and you’ll generate
a vile scratching sound; too much and your note will be a coarse rasp. And did
I mention that the tension of the bow’s hairs is critical to its sound? That
tension is dialed in with a little screw on the bow’s handle, and the bow hair
must be slackened each time the bow is stored, and tightened every time you
take it out to play, so you can’t just find the right tension and leave it that
way. You also have to make sure you have the proper amount of rosin on the bow
hair, to provide the exact amount of stickiness it needs to grasp and vibrate
the violin strings.
And then there’s the fingerboard itself. There are no frets
on it, which means that if you want to play a note in the proper pitch, your
finger must press on the string in precisely the right place for that pitch,
and not a fraction of a millimeter off in either direction. You have only your
ears to tell you whether you’re in tune or not, which means that your sense of pitch
has to be trained as well. (Note that we’re talking about relative pitch here –
the relationships that the notes have to each other, and not with reference to
the standard or “perfect” pitch you might produce with a tuning fork.) By
contrast, most stringed instruments are fretted, with the vibrating length of
the string determined by about two dozen metal bands that are placed along the
fingerboard. By pressing the string pretty much anywhere above these frets, you
can get the string to vibrate at the proper pitch. But the violin (along with
the viola, cello, and double bass, its cousins in the orchestra) doesn’t use
frets, so your finger position must be precise.
And, finally, you must acquire the necessary coordination to
ensure that the bow is hitting the string at the exact time that your finger is
in position, and that the bow is at the right location on the string and at the
right pressure. It’s like walking backward while patting your head with your
left hand and rubbing your belly with your right one, all the while whistling
“Dixie” in tune.
After my first lessons on the violin, by the gifted teacher
Linda Keen, my respect for violinists increased by a couple orders of
magnitude. It became obvious to me that starting at the age of nine wouldn’t
have been such a bad idea, after all. But I persevered, first learning how to
control the bow on the “open” strings, which are not touched by your fingers,
and then using the fingers to sound the five or six basic notes on each string.
After six months, that’s pretty much where I am now, although I am able to play
a few simple pieces of music with enough proficiency that my cats no longer
leave the room when I pick up the violin. But I’m still a long, long way from
being comfortable playing for and with other people.
I have to credit Linda with something else, too. I am
learning the violin “left-handed” and she was one of the very, very few
teachers in my area that were willing to teach me. Some explanation is in order
here.
Playing the violin left-handed is, as you might suspect, the
mirror image of playing right-handed. You hold the bow in the left hand and
press on the strings with the fingers of the right hand. The stringing on the
violin itself is also reversed, which in turn means that the reinforcements on
the inside of the violin must also be reversed if you want the best sound from
the instrument.
Now, I play the guitar and mandolin right-handed, so why
didn’t I do the same with the violin? The answer is: I tried. My kit-built
violin was a right-handed violin, but when I tried to play it, my left wrist
hurt. It didn’t want to bend in that awkward arc I mentioned a few paragraphs
back, and extending my fingers to press on the strings resulted in more wrist pain
than I was willing to accept. But when I switched the violin from my left
shoulder to my right shoulder, and experimented with using my right hand on the
fingerboard, all was well. So I went back to my workshop, opened up the violin,
and reversed the bracing on the inside of the spruce soundboard. After the
violin was reassembled, I made a new bridge and nut that were mirror images of
the old ones, installed the sound-post (a sort of internal strut) on the
opposite side of where it was before, and strung up the violin again. A little
playing with the new configuration told me that I needed to reverse the positions
of the tuning pegs as well, so that their locations wouldn’t interfere with my
right hand’s range of motion.
I didn’t realize that I had just created one of the rarest
of stringed instruments. I showed it to a few friends, some of whom were
luthiers, and found to my surprise that none of them had ever seen a
left-handed violin before. It turns out that there was a deep-seated prejudice
against these things in the violin world. Some of the reasons made sense, in a
way. For instance, if you had three violins in a row in the often cramped
confines of a symphony orchestra, you’d want them all to be sawing away in the
same direction, so that they wouldn’t be poking each other with their bows.
There was also the feeling that the symmetry of the players made for better
visuals as well. At any rate, students were discouraged from learning on
anything but a right-handed violin, and teachers would usually refuse to accept
any students who wanted to learn to play left-handed. Not to mention that the
overwhelming majority of violins were right-handed, including all the
prestigious ones sought after by talented violinists. (If Stradivari or any of
the other famous violin makers of Cremona had ever built a left-handed violin,
history has failed to record the event.)
But I didn’t fit into either of those categories. I already
had a left-handed violin and didn’t expect to trade up to a better one any time
soon. And I didn’t see myself ever performing in a symphony orchestra.
Nonetheless, I had made contact with a half-dozen instructors who turned me
down before Linda agreed to undertake the challenge.
A few weeks ago, I did something else that would have
scandalized more than a few violinists and teachers. I thought about putting
frets on the violin, to eliminate much of the difficulty of positioning my
fingers in the right place. After all, I’d been used to playing guitars pretty
much all my life, and I missed not having them on the violin.
I found, though, that fretted violins were regarded with the
same distaste as left-handed violins, or possibly even more so. Reasons
abounded. For one thing, you couldn’t “slide” a note to deliberately make it
off-pitch, which is an important part of the repertoire of the classical
violinist as well as popular fiddling styles as old-time music, bluegrass, and
Celtic styles. There were also a variety of musical traditions that used a
somewhat different scale, with different assignments of pitch; these included
mid-Eastern traditions, “Gypsy” music, and Far Eastern music. To put frets on a
violin would destroy its versatility in accommodating all these styles.
“Well,” I thought, “so what?” I wasn’t going to be playing
any of these sorts of music for a long time, if at all. And if I did want to,
later on, I could just switch out a fretted fingerboard with an unfretted one. Researching
further, I found that there was a small but vocal group of fiddlers who had
good things to say about fretted fiddles. Some were in rock bands, where the
playback levels of the venue prevented them from hearing their own music
clearly. Since they couldn’t always hear how accurately they were fingering the
strings, they came to rely on frets to ensure that they were hitting the right
pitches. I also found that there were luthiers who, for around $150.00, would
be glad to sell you a fingerboard with frets already installed. That was a bit
out of my price range, but I wondered how hard it would be to install the frets
myself. The only drawback was that they had to be precisely placed if the
violin was to play in tune.
And then I found that I didn’t have to make my own
“fretboard,” because Peter Stoney, a musician in Canada, had devised a way to
make an overlay to a fingerboard that had the frets already installed. The
overlay was a sheet of thin plastic that adhered to the fingerboard, and he
would sell you two of them for $28.00, postage paid. Mr. Stoney makes them for
violins, violas, and cellos and sells them through his business (the web site
is www.frettedfiddle.com) and on
eBay. I couldn’t resist, and placed my order. A week or so, later, they came in
the mail, and I put one of the pair onto my violin and tried it out.
Well, it works. The frets are in the right place, as far as
I can tell, and they don’t interfere with the movement of the strings, although
I did have to raise one of the strings a hair to avoid it buzzing against the
fret. (I’d set that string too low when I built the violin.) They don’t quite
work the way frets usually do on a guitar, because your finger has to be pretty
much on top of the fret or just behind it, but I don’t consider that a problem.
They do let you know by feel, before your bow touches the string, whether your
finger is in the right place or not. And I can foresee that they will help me
place my fingers properly over time, so that the overlay won’t always be
necessary in the future. In this sense, the frets like the set of training
wheels on a bicycle: as you continue to practice, the less need you’ll have for
them over time, and the earlier you can get to that level of proficiency. After
all, with all the complexity of the other things that a seventy-year old man
has to master, he needs all the help he can get.